“ Now when I was a little chap I had a passion for maps. I would look for hours at South America, or Africa, or Australia, and lose myself in all the glories of exploration. At that time there were many blank spaces on the earth, and when I saw one that looked particularly inviting on a map (but they all look that) I would put my finger on it and say, ‘When I grow up I will go there.’ ” Joseph Conrad
Like every adventure in Nicaragua, it starts with a long bumpy bus ride. This time, it has to be the toughest, most uncomfortable one we’ve ever taken. About 4 hours in a packed school bus, on mountain dirt roads, to reach the Macizo de Peñas Blancas, a research station in the cloudy mountains of the Jinotega region. But once you get there, it is all worth it. It is surrounded by coffee fields which are weirdly connected to the global world with Starbuck signs if a field has been “certified”. But the Peñas Blancas rise above in a mysterious way and you catch a glimpse of the untamed, virgin, primary forest that survives there with wildlife like Pumas, Jaguars, and the mysterious Quetzal.
It is part of a larger reserve called the Bosawas Biosphere which is the second largest tropical forest in the Western Hemisphere after the Amazon. And it is actually unexplored and unmapped, which means sadly sometimes also unprotected.
First hike. We go out with a Nicaraguan couple on vacation and a great guide who hikes in very stylish jeans (which he manages to keep spotless clean from any mud, even though we end up covered with it within a few minutes).
The reward, a pretty amazing waterfall from a river coming from the primary forest in the upper plateau.
Cool encounter: a Sloth!
End of the first day, playing cards and getting to know the local dogs.
The following morning, we manage to see the National bird of Nicaragua, the Turquoise-browed Motmot.
For our second day, we go out with the same guide as yesterday. He seems very happy to take us on the hardest hike around the Peñas Blancas. The hike takes us to the upper part of the Massif, to the Primary forest. You definitely see the plants change, everything becomes more wild, more birds, and even Jaguar tracks. We are in the Heart of Darkness.
The forest is engulfed in fog. We heard there is an incredible view. I do like it better like that.
This goes to the waterfall. Don’t slip!
The adventure comes to an end and into a coffee field.
Sadly, after 2 full days, we have to leave and take the bus down the mountain. We wait at the local coffee co-op and have a great conversation with two men waiting there as well, watching the rain. They ask us lots of questions about Europe, Gay marriage (in a very candid way…), Life.
